Miss Mostyn prefers West Shore when Llandudno needs air, sunsets, space and fewer witnesses.
West Shore is where Llandudno slips out of the front door and stops pretending it is expecting visitors. It faces towards Conwy, Anglesey and the mountains of Eryri, which is often the more intelligent direction.
The beach looks across the Conwy estuary and the water towards Anglesey. On a clear day, the mountains of Snowdonia rise behind, providing a backdrop that no promenade hotel could compete with, however well-maintained its render.
There is more space here, especially at low tide, and far less of the promenade performance. The air can be sharp, the wind direct and the mood private enough to encourage confidences one might later deny.
The sands change with tide and weather, so bring judgement. The sea is not a domestic servant and will not rearrange itself because one has chosen unsuitable shoes. At low tide, the beach extends substantially, giving room to walk properly rather than negotiate.
Alice Liddell, the real child connected with Lewis Carroll’s Alice, holidayed with her family at Pen Morfa on West Shore. This is noted not because it makes the beach more beautiful but because it may improve your conversation while standing on it.
West Shore is excellent for walking, sunsets and escaping the pier side of town. It has less to sell you, which places it immediately above half the seaside trade.
The residential streets behind West Shore are quieter and less commercial than the North Shore seafront. Some visitors prefer to stay here precisely for that reason, accepting the slightly longer walk to Mostyn Street in exchange for a calmer setting and better light in the evening.
On the right evening, the light across the estuary and mountains makes even difficult people briefly tolerable. I confess I have lingered here longer than respectability strictly required.
The RNLI lifeboat station sits on the West Shore coast, a practical reminder that the Irish Sea is not decorative and that the people who understand it best are those who take it seriously.
If North Shore is the front parlour, West Shore is the side door after midnight. Both are useful, but one is more likely to tell you the truth.